Printers Jack Iron-On Heat Transfer Paper for Dark Fabric 20 Sheet 8.3×11.7″ T-Shirt Transfer Paper for Inkjet Printer Wash Durable, Long Lasting Transfer, No Cracking

Ok the instruction were absolutely terrible. Zero support on the website contrary to what the instruction sheets say. So it mentions what side to print on in different ways depending on what production lot the paper was from. There are no marking on the back side on most of the newer lots. You print on the glossy side. Set your printer to a gloss paper and on normal or better quality. Draft is a no-no and best is a waste of ink. It’s difficult to adjust some printers to the actual paper size. It’s not really letter size it’s a little longer and more narrow. It will print on letter but will likely be offset. If you want to save yourself a headache put your design on a Word document and fiddle with it there. As long as you leave about an inch on each side minimum you’ll be fine but you may have to do some cutting. The paper sometimes separates too easy depending on your printer and the paper settings. Sometimes the paper you get may have a manufacturing issue prone to separate easier. It’s usually where the paper enters the printer and it’s most of the times it’s minimal. If you leave at least 2 inches between the end of the sheet and your design you can trim off the area that began to separate. When cutting, rounded edges work better than straight ones. They seem to peel easier and appear to be more durable. Watch for jagged edges when you’re cutting and ALWAYS leave at least a half inch or better around your final product. It mentions it in the instructions but in a not understandable way. Some folks peel the backing off and then iron but the transfer paper is fragile and more prone to getting hung up on the material when ironing. I always keep the backing on and use oversized parchment paper so that it hangs an inch or 2 over the sides of the design. The paper parchment paper it comes with the kit is like toilet paper use your own parchment paper if you have any. Use slow motions light pressure at first and start putting some good weight behind your iron. Don’t forget to concentrate a pass or 2 on the outline of your transfer and watch that the tip of your iron doesn’t get hung up on the fabric. A little over 2 minutes on high usually does the trick. Do not use an ironing board work it on a smooth wood floor or wood table. Do not iron on glass, ceramic, or anything that may conduct heat away from your material. Finally let the shirt or whatever cool somewhat before peeling. Not piping hot and not too cold. Cool. Peel slow and methodically. If you peel too fast you’ll see the end transfer to the backing and you may get uneven color transfer on your material. End product will probably survive between 1 and 4 washes. Wash gentle inside out and NO dryer. Don’t wash for at least 24 hours I’d say 48 hours. Oh yeah the white transfer requires you to create a mirror image of the photo and text. Some transfers do not. Most do however. Make sure to read the instructions. When you place the transfer on your material printed size down the final product should be oriented correctly. If it’s not you either placed it on the shirt the wrong way or you didn’t mirror the image. If your printer doesn’t have a “mirror” setting you have to do it manually on your photo software or on Word.Final product is decent. Looks way better than Avery at a fraction of the price. The Avery lasts a little longer I think however. This would be 5 stars if they had better instructions or support on their website. They only seem to have support for their dye sublimation transfers not for inkjet.